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‘There was movement at the station’: History, art & literature from the foothills of the Snowy Mountains to the Central Tablelands – March 2022

Status: open

22 Mar – 1 Apr 2022

Overview

‘There was movement at the station’: History, art & literature from the foothills of the Snowy Mountains to the Central Tablelands – March 2022
Tour Highlights

A land of sombre, silent hills, where mountain cattle go
By twisted tracks, on sidelings deep, where giant gum trees grow
And the wind replies, in the river oaks, to the song of the stream below.
A land where the hills keep watch and ward, silent and wide awake
As those who sit by a dead campfire, and wait for the dawn to break,
Or those who watched by the Holy Cross for the dead Redeemer’s sake.

Banjo Paterson, Australian Scenery

Join historian and author, Dr Andrew Lemon AM FRHSV, and award-winning artist David Henderson on a journey through the Snowy Mountains, Canberra and the Central Tablelands, to explore how the Australian landscape has exerted a powerful influence on Australian literature and painting.

  • Enjoy a special program arranged at the National Film and Sound Archive with Curator, Dr Jenny Gall, where we view a selection of film costumes from Picnic at Hanging Rock and My Brilliant Career and learn about her book Looking for Rose Paterson: How Family Bush Life Nurtured Banjo the Poet.
  • Explore the creative response to our landscape by a number of well-known artists of the ‘golden age’ including Lloyd Rees, Sidney Nolan, Russell Drysdale and Arthur Boyd with visits to museums and galleries, and to towns such as Sofala and Hill End where they painted.
  • Journey through varied landscapes visiting museums, historical sites and homesteads associated with two of Australia’s best-known bush poets, Henry Lawson and Banjo Patterson.
  • Visit historic Palerang Homestead and learn about the ‘poet of Monaro’, David Campbell, who wrote over 15 volumes of prose and poetry.
  • Skirt the Brindabellas and adjacent Snowy Mountains, home to authors such as Miles Franklin and Patrick White, and the scenic inspiration for Banjo Patterson’s The Man from Snowy River.
  • Tour the National Gallery of Australia to view selected works including ‘The Squatters Daughter’ painted by George Washington Lambert. The painting depicts Gwendoline ‘Dee’ Ryrie by her horse at Micalago Station which we visit.
  • Enjoy a private viewing of the Garangula Gallery, an award-winning building by Fender Katsalidis Mirams Architects (Mona, Hobart) which houses an important private collection of Aboriginal art and key Australian painters. (To be confirmed)
  • By special appointment, visit the former residence of Manning Clark and his wife, Dymphna, which was designed by the architect and writer, Robin Boyd.
  • Meet award-winning crime fiction authors Sulari Gentill (Rowland Sinclair Mysteries Series) and Chris Hammer (Scrublands, Silver, Trust)

Testimonial

This ASA tour was amazing from start to finish and far exceeded my expectations. It was filled with wonderful visits to galleries, museums, private studios, homesteads, natural landscapes and the experts/curators were so generous and informative. Meeting living authors and artists was a real thrill and learning about historical authors and artists – their influences and environments was fascinating. Julie, NSW

A wonderful way to explore the art and literature of our own beloved country! Malvina, NSW

Overnight Canberra (2 nights) • Millthorpe (2 nights) • Mudgee (2 nights) • Young (1 night) • Tumut (1 night) • Canberra (2 nights)

Itinerary

Itinerary

The following itinerary describes a range of sites which we plan to visit. At the time of publication (May 2021) most visits had been confirmed. While several are accessible to the public, others require special permission which may only be confirmed closer to the tour’s departure in 2022.

The daily activities described in this itinerary may change or be rotated and/or modified in order to accommodate alterations in opening hours and confirmation of private visits. Participants will receive a final itinerary, together with their tour documents, prior to departure. The tour includes meals indicated in the detailed itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch and D=dinner.

Canberra – 2 nights

Day 1: Tuesday 22 March, Arrive Canberra
  • Joining Procedures
  • Welcome Meeting & Light Lunch
  • Canberra Museum+Gallery (CMAG): Curator led tour incl. The Nolan Exhibition
  • Talk with Dr Jenny Gall: ‘Looking for Rose Paterson: How Family Bush Life Nurtured Banjo the Poet’
  • Welcome Dinner at The Boat House

Meeting Point: 11.45am foyer of the Avenue Hotel. Please meet your group leaders in the foyer of the hotel. At this time you will be asked to complete ASA’s Health Declaration Form, a copy of which will be sent to you prior to the commencement of the tour. We will then depart for the CMAG where we commence with a short introductory meeting during which a light lunch (sandwiches and refreshments) will be served.

We meet with Virginia Rigney, Senior Curator Visual Arts, for a tour of CMAG where we explore how artists have captured the development of Canberra through different lenses, and how this has shaped the way they understood and interpreted the evolving landscape. The collection includes works by Douglas Dundas, Michael Taylor, AE Macdonald, JG Brown, and  ‘Landscape’, painted by Elioth Gruner. One of his loveliest landscapes, it was painted in 1929 during one of his trips to the countryside around Canberra including the areas around Yass, Goulburn, Braidwood and Cooma.

Sir Sidney Nolan, one of Australia’s most important modernists, is best known for his depictions of the history and mythology of Australian bush life. His paintings on the theme of the 19th-century bushranger Ned Kelly are one of the greatest series of Australian paintings of the 20th century. We shall view The Nolan Collection which includes 24 works that Nolan gifted to the people of Australia in 1974. The works include paintings from the Kelly, Burke and Wills, and St Kilda series, as well as examples of the artist’s central Australian landscape and carcase works.

Tonight we enjoy a welcome dinner at The Boat House, an award-winning restaurant with views overlooking the lake. We commence with drinks on the deck. Dr Jenny Gall, who is the author of Looking for Rose Paterson: How Family Bush Life Nurtured Banjo the Poet, will explain how Banjo Paterson’s short stories and poems like Clancy of the Overflow and The Man from Snowy River drew on his childhood upbringing in small country towns in New South Wales (close to Orange, and then Yass) and the influence upon him of strong women of the bush – women much like his mother, Rose. (Overnight Canberra) LD

Day 2: Wednesday 23 March, Canberra
  • Coach tour of Mount Ainslie with Dr Roslyn Russell
  • National Gallery of Australia: Australian Art Collection

Dr Roslyn Russell, historian, museum curator and Chair of the UNESCO Australian Memory of the World Committee, meet our group this morning, and takes us on a coach tour to the summit of Mount Ainslie where the look-out is named after Marion Mahony Griffin to commemorate her contribution to the design of Canberra. Marion Mahony Griffin integrated the natural and built environments to create the “bush capital”. Her watercolour perspectives of Walter Griffins’s design for Canberra were instrumental in securing first prize in the international competition for the plan of the city, in 1912.

Arthur Streeton once commented that “Nature’s scheme of colour in Australia is gold and blue.” Do you agree? At the National Gallery of Australia we explore the development of Australian landscape painting. Highlights include works by John Glover, Frederick McCubbin (‘Bush Idyll’), Tom Roberts (‘In a corner on the Macintyre’), Charles Conder, Margaret Preston, Lloyd Rees, Russell Drysdale (‘The Drover’s Wife’), Arthur Boyd, Sidney Nolan and Arthur Streeton. Of particular interest is ‘The Squatter’s Daughter’ painted by George Lambert in 1923-4 which depicts Gwendoline ‘Dee’ Ryrie in white shirt and jodhpurs leading her horse across the family property at Micalago Station which we visit later in the tour.

We will also view the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Island art collection which is inspired by the land and the people’s relationship with it. The collection, which comprises over 7500 works, is displayed over a series of gallery spaces, each designed for a different geographic region or aspect of indigenous art.

Following our tour of the gallery, there will be time at leisure to further explore the gallery. (Overnight Canberra) BL

Millthorpe – 2 nights

Day 3: Thursday 24 March, Canberra – Springrange – Millthorpe
  • National Film and Sound Archive (NFSA): Presentation by curator Dr Jenny Gall
  • Lunch at the Poachers Pantry, Springrange
  • Dinner at the award-winning Tonic Restaurant Millthorpe

According to author and historian A.E. Samaan, “a forgotten past is a past that is yet to be. A forgotten history is a memory missing from our collective conscience.” Oral history – what is said on radio, TV and film – is hugely important to a nation. This is what is collected and preserved at the National Film and Sound Archive. Textiles are amongst the most fragile of items in the NFSA collection, which is why they are only rarely placed on display. Accompanied by curator, Dr Jenny Gall, we also view selected film costumes including examples from Picnic at Hanging Rock (1975), My Brilliant Career (1979) and The Getting of Wisdom (1978).

Then we depart Canberra for Millthorpe, a beautiful heritage-listed village in the Orange Wine Region. In 2003, Millthorpe was the setting for the TV mini-series Jessica, which is based on the Bryce Courtney novel of the same name. It tells the story of the life of one woman in rural NSW during the early part of last century.

En route to Millthorpe we break for a picnic lunch at the Poachers Pantry. Located in the Yass Vallery region, this is considered one of the finest smokehouses in the country which uses natural wood smoke to produce their award-winning range.

In the evening we dine at the award-winning Tonic restaurant. (Overnight Millthorpe) BLD

Day 4: Friday 25 March: Millthorpe – Bathurst – Millthorpe
  • Bathurst Regional Art Gallery (BRAG): Tour with Sarah Gurich, BRAG Curator
  • Abercrombie House: Light Lunch, Guided tour & Organ recital
  • Time at leisure in the heritage-listed town of Millthorpe

This morning we travel from Millthorpe to Bathurst. When Charles Darwin visited Bathurst in 1836 “to get a general idea of the country”, he thought the local people too bent on acquiring wealth and lacking a strong interest in literature. Well, much has changed since Darwin’s day!  We will visit the Bathurst Regional Art Gallery with Sarah Gurich, BRAG curator and tour the gallery’s permanent collection which features works by artists such as Jean Bellette, Donald Friend, James Gleeson, John Olsen, Lloyd Rees and Fred Williams. A highlight is the Lloyd Rees Collection which includes his major painting ‘May Morning No 2’, painted in 1981, as well as a large collection of drawings and prints. The artist’s connection with Bathurst began when he married Marjory Pollard in 1931. Marjory’s family had been in the district since 1886, and the couple would travel to Bathurst regularly to stay with her family at Duramana and Mount Rankin. For over 40 years Lloyd Rees continued to visit the region; his deep love for the Bathurst landscape is reflected in the numerous paintings and drawings he completed.

Bathurst had 5030 inhabitants when Trollope visited and he was more favourably impressed than Darwin had been: “Of Bathurst I cannot speak otherwise than kindly because of the kindness I received there”, he wrote. Much of what he saw is still there and we will enjoy a guided tour of the town centre exploring its rich history and gold rush heritage.

Gordon Neil Stewart was born in Melbourne in 1912 into a wealthy Australian family with pastoral interests in the Bathurst district. He developed a love of reading from long holidays spent in the library of his uncle’s home, Abercrombie House. He mixed in literary circles and met Pamela Hansford Johnson and Dylan Thomas. In 1936 he married Hansford Johnson with whom he collaborated on two thrillers under the name Nap Lombard. His fictional works include The Place of Gold, a story of mining in the early 1850s in the newly discovered goldfields near Bathurst. Lunch will be at historic Abercrombie House. We will also tour the 50-room mansion, built in the Scottish Baronial style, and learn about its history.

After lunch and at the end of the tour around the house, we will gather in the Ballroom for a glass of sherry or champagne. Here we will enjoy a short recital and demonstration of the small but incredibly historic Chamber Organ which was the first organ brought to Australia in 1840 by Robert Campbell of Duntroon, just 23 years after Jane Austen’s death and a perfect example of the type of thing which was likely in the refined country houses of the landed gentry of whom Jane Austen so often wrote!

We return to Millthorpe for some time at leisure to explore the heritage-listed town. (Overnight Orange) BL

Mudgee – 2 nights

Day 5: Saturday 26 March, Millthorpe – Sofala – Hill End – Mudgee
  • Township of Sofala & the Studio of Amanda Penrose Hart
  • Light lunch at the Sacred Heart Church
  • The Artists of Hill End: Walking tour with Sarah Gurich, BRAG Curator, Murray and Haefliger cottages, and artist studio
  • Dinner at the Pipeclay Pumphouse, the fine dining restaurant at the Robert Stein Vineyard & Winery

Sofala, the second established goldfield in NSW, was “a poor little town, containing 644 inhabitants, of whom a considerable portion are Chinese”, when Anthony Trollope visited it. He watched them fossicking and pitied their hard lives. In 1947 Russell Drysdale and fellow artist Donald Friend visited Sofala and Hill End; they were both captivated by the ambience and character of these towns. Works inspired by these towns, their inhabitants and the surrounding landscapes, are among those for which Drysdale is now best known. The area is also associated with Joe Yates, one of Australia’s richest sources of rare colonial dance music and songs. After working as a boundary rider on Fremantle Station, east of Orange, and later on a farm at Botobolar, near Mudgee, he retired to Sofala where he was recorded by field collectors John Meredith, Chris Sullivan and Mike Martin throughout the 1980s. There are also two small books of his poems and stories entitled Out Sofala Way and A Bushman’s Scrapbook.

This morning we view some of Sofala’s historic buildings and compare its streetscape with Russell Drysdale’s famous painting ‘Sofala’, an expression of the quintessential qualities of an inland Australian country town.  We also hope to visit the studio of landscape painter Amanda Penrose Hart. Her work is represented in public and private collections including the Australian National Maritime Museum and the Bathurst Regional Art Gallery.

Following a light lunch at the Sacred Heart Church we meet again with Sarah Gurich, BRAG Curator, and visit the remarkably well-preserved colonial gold mining town of Hill End. The genesis of the Hill End Artists in Residence Programme dates to Russell Drysdale’s and Don Friend’s visit to the area in the 1940s. Friend eventually bought Murrays Cottage and lived there with his partner Donald Murray for a number of years. Drysdale visited regularly, and in 1948 painted possibly his best-known work, ‘The Cricketers’. Other artists who worked here include Margaret Olley, Jean Bellette, Paul Haefliger, David Strachan and Jeffrey Smart. We will take a guided tour through the historic village and visit the Murray Cottage which is largely unaltered. It displays works of art, books and furnishings. We also view the Haefliger Cottage which was owned by Jean Bellette and Paul Haefliger. The cottage, which remained largely untouched when the Haefligers moved to Majorca in 1957, includes many artworks from friends and colleagues as well as their substantial library which lines the hallway shelves. By special arrangement with the Bathurst Regional Gallery, we also plan to visit an artist’s studio.

We continue our route to reach Mudgee, first established in 1821, and where Trollope spent a night. He described it as “a clean little town”. Mudgee’s wine industry was well established by the time of Trollope’s visit – he was fond of wine and accumulated a substantial cellar. We will enjoy dinner at the Pipeclay Pumphouse, a unique fine-dining restaurant at the Robert Stein Vineyard & Winery. (Overnight Mudgee) BLD

Day 6: Sunday 27 March, Mudgee – Eurunderee – Gulgong – Mudgee
  • Heritage coach tour of Mudgee
  • Lawson Hill Estate: Eurunderee Provisional School & Henry Lawson Memorial
  • Henry Lawson’s Heritage Trail
  • Henry Lawson Centre, Gulgong
  • Literary Walking tour of Gulgong
  • The Prince of Wales Opera House: Guided tour & afternoon tea, Gulgong
  • Dinner at the Charnwood Food and Wine restaurant

We spend the day exploring the Mudgee-Gulgong district. In the morning we take a heritage coach tour of Mudgee, where Trollope visited the Mechanics Institute and was impressed at the number of novels available for borrowing there. Many of Mudgee’s buildings have been classified by the National Trust.

From Mudgee we continue to Eurunderee where we meet Jenni Buckley, owner of the Lawson Estate, for a tour of the Eurunderee Provisional School and the Henry Lawson’s Heritage Trail.

Republican, nationalist, poet and short-story writer, Henry Lawson was the first Australian author ever to be granted a State Funeral. Yet his beginnings were humble ones. He was born at the Grenfell goldfields in 1867. His childhood gave him strong ties to the Mudgee-Gulgong district.  When he was just a few months old, the family moved to Eurunderee (then known as ‘Pipeclay’) where they squatted on 2 acres for a few years before moving to Gulgong in 1871, following the gold rush. The family returned to Eurunderee in 1873 when Henry was 6 yrs old, and took up a holding of 40 acres. His father built their house in 1876, the remains of which are at the entrance way to what is now referred to as the Lawson Hill Estate. That same year Henry began his schooling at the Eurunderee Provisional School. This school still exists, although closed, on the corner of Henry Lawson Drive and Strikes Lane. This is on the northern boundary of Lawson Hill Estate. After a disagreement with the teacher Louisa withdrew Henry from the Eurunderee school and transferred him to St Matthews Catholic School in Mudgee. He lasted at this school for only a few months before leaving school permanently. Henry spent the next 4 years working with his father on building jobs around the district, before moving to Sydney with his mother in 1883.

At the age of nine, while attending Eurunderee Provisionary School, Henry developed an ear infection and became partially deaf. In spite of this he had an amazing ear for ‘the voice of the people’ in his writings. In 1897 he wrote about the school in his poem The Old Bark School. Above Eurunderee is about the town and surrounding area. Lawson famously told stories in the Mudgee’s Miner’s Arms Hotel and wrote much of his work while living in the area.

“There was one who first taught me my future to rule
In the dear old bark humpy where I went to school;
and the kind hearted master I’ll never forget
(Nor the brogue of old Erin that clings to me yet)
But his hair must be frosty and wrinkled his brow
If he teaches the school at Eurunderee now.”

Henry Lawson, Eurunderee 

On 14 October, 1871, English novelist Anthony Trollope was guest of honour at a luncheon in Gulgong and had to make a speech. He complimented the locals on being “more English than they are at home” and thanked them for the warm welcome he had received. He was impressed by the town’s facilities – pubs, banks, a photographer, hotels, bakers, butchers and an auction house.

Lawson once called the Australian bush “the nurse and tutor of eccentric minds”, and it features in so many of his works. The Henry Lawson Heritage Trail covers a total of 15 sites associated with Lawson and his writings.  Some of the places included are Sapling Gully which Lawson wrote about in His Father’s Mate, and the Budgee Budgee Inn (out on the Cassilis Road – and setting for the famous story The Loaded Dog). We will follow this heritage trail and visit the Henry Lawson Centre dedicated to Lawson’s life and works. Displays include photos, paintings, first editions and manuscripts.

From the Henry Lawson Centre we commence a literary walking tour of Gulgong which will focus on sites associated with Thomas Alexander Browne (alias Rolf Boldrewood) and Henry Lawson. Gulgong is believed to be one of the primary locations in Browne’s Robbery under Arms. After living in Sydney a short time, he became the police magistrate here during the boom years, from 1871-1881.  Browne drew on his experiences at the goldfields in his novel The Miner’s Right (1890).

We end the day with a visit to the historic Prince of Wales Opera House which was built in 1871 by John Hart Cogden. English Shakespearean actress Dame Ellen Terry, and Dame Nellie Melba are among the luminaries who have graced its stage since the 1870s.

Tonight we dine at the Charnwood Food and Wine restaurant which is located next door to our motel. (Overnight Mudgee) BLD

Young – 1 night

Day 7: Monday 28 March, Mudgee – Yeoval – Grenfell – Young
  • ‘Banjo Paterson… more than a Poet’ Exhibition, Yeoval
  • Grenfell orientation tour incl. visit to the Historical Museum
  • Grenfell Silo Art by the artist Heesco Khosnaran
  • Dinner at the Young Services Club

Yeoval (known as Buckinbah in the 1860s) is a small village in the Central Western district surrounded by rich agricultural land known for its production of fine wool, wheat, orchards, vineyards, beef cattle and fat lambs. Banjo Paterson’s family lived on isolated Buckinbah Station until he was five, then his father lost his wool clip in a flood and was forced to sell up. When Banjo’s uncle John Paterson died, Banjo’s family took over John Paterson’s farm in Illalong, near Yass. This morning we visit the ‘Banjo Paterson … more than a Poet’ Exhibition which is the only exhibition in Australia dedicated to the life and times of the poet whose Waltzing Matilda is familiar to us all.

Gold was discovered in Grenfell in 1866. Among the early miners to rush to the fields was a Norwegian digger Niels Larsen. On 17th June 1867 Larsen’s wife, Louisa (who became a writer, publisher and suffragist), gave birth to a son they named Henry, changing their surname to Lawson at the same time. For a short time they lived together in the slab hut Niels built, before moving to the Mudgee region, where Henry Lawson spent most of his childhood. In 1924, following the death of Henry Lawson, a tree was planted on the site of the original slab hut. The ceremony to commemorate this site was attended by Lawson’s wife and daughter. Another literary figure with connections to Grenfell was Anthony Trollope, who travelled to Grenfell twice in 1871 to visit his son Frederick who worked on a nearby sheep station. “I went to Australia chiefly in order that I might see my son among his sheep. I did see him among his sheep, and remained with him for four or five very happy weeks”, Trollope wrote. Fred’s property at Mortray was the sheep station Trollope described so accurately in his novella Harry Heathcote of Gangoil.

On arrival in Grenfell we make a short tour of the town and include a brief visit to the Historical Museum. Housed in the former School of Arts dating from 1896, the museum includes exhibitions on Henry Lawson and the history of bushranging.

In 2018 Melbourne based artist Heesco Khosnaran was commissioned to transform four silos into a canvas for Grenfell’s largest artwork installation. We will view this artwork which needed 180 litres of paint and 800 spray cans to complete. The artwork images represent contemporary farming with sheep, cattle, and native birds set against a depiction of the Weddin Mountains National Park.

In the late afternoon we drive on to the town of Young, another gold town and the cherry capital of Australia. Tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast will be served at the Young Services Club. (Overnight Young) BLD

Tumut – 1 night

Day 8: Tuesday 29 March, Young – Harden – Killimicat – Tumut
  • Private viewing of the Garangula Gallery, Harden (to be confirmed)
  • Lunch at Three Blue Ducks at Nimbo Fork Lodge, Killimicat
  • Award-winning author Sulari Gentill: ‘Crime Fiction’

We depart Young early this morning for a a private viewing of the Garangula Art Gallery, an award-winning building located in rural NSW. It houses an important private collection of Aboriginal art and artefacts collected over many years by the owners. The Gallery is a unique building of rammed earth, stone, wood and corten steel. Designed by Fender Katsalidis Mirams Architects (Mona, Hobart), its outstanding design and construction have been recognised with significant awards including the 2014 NSW Architecture Awards for Interior Design, the 2014 Blacket Prize, the ACT 2014 Master Builders Project of the Year, and the 2014 Master Builders National Excellence Award for a Commercial/Industrial Construction. The collection housed in the building features the work of many eminent indigenous artists. The art, along with aboriginal artefacts and traditional crafts, covers most parts of Aboriginal Australia and are beautifully displayed in this specially designed Gallery. Also housed in the Gallery are fine examples of Australian colonial art, paintings by Arthur Streeton, Fred Williams, Russell Drysdale and Sidney Nolan, furniture and other curios. Many of the works and other items have been held in private collections for many years and have not ever been on public display. The Gallery and collection are only occasionally opened to the public so this is a rare opportunity to view this impressive building and significant collection of art, artefacts and furniture.

From the Garangula Gallery we continue our journey south to Killimicat, nestled in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains. We will dine at Three Blue Ducks at Nimbo Fork Lodge, a countryside escape which offers a paddock-to-plate dining experience. What a treat to be joined there by award-winning author Sulari Gentill who lives on a French black truffles farm in nearby Batlow. Also known under the pen name of S.D. Gentill, Sulari is author of the Rowland Sinclair Mysteries – thus far, ten historical crime novels chronicling the life and adventures of her 1930s gentleman artist and his Bohemian friends. These books, set in Sydney but also in the Canberra region, have been described as “Evelyn Waugh meets Agatha Christie” and they are a delightful read. Sulari has also written the Hero Trilogy, based on the myths and epics of the ancient world.

In the late afternoon we continue to the town of Tumut, the Aboriginal word for ‘quiet resting place by the river’. (Overnight Tumut) BL

Canberra – 2 nights

Day 9: Wednesday 30 March, Tumut – Adaminaby – Michelago – Canberra
  • The Snowy Mountains Highway: Australia’s High Country
  • Mt Gladstone Lookout, Cooma
  • Micalago Station: Lunch and tour of the gardens

This morning we depart Tumut and take the scenic Snowy Mountains Highway, which traverses the northern part of the Kosciuszko National Park, to Adaminaby, a small town north-west of Cooma.  The historic Bolaro Station and scenic Yaouk Valley are located near the township. In 1939 the Nobel winning author Patrick White wrote his debut novel Happy Valley which is based on his own experiences in the early 1930s as a jackaroo at Bolaro. It paints a portrait of a community in a desolate landscape.

Some historians believe that Banjo Paterson’s most famous poem, The Man from Snowy River, may have been inspired by the exploits of an Adaminaby stockman, Charlie McKeahnie. McKeahnie died in a riding accident in 1895. We stop in Adaminaby for a short morning tea/coffee break.

From Adaminaby we continue our journey along the highway to the Mount Gladstone Lookout where we may enjoy magnificent views across the Monaro Plains and to the peaks of the Snowy Mountains.

From the Lookout we head north through the Michelago Valley, much appreciated by poets, artists and filmmakers. Along with his mentor George Lambert, Elioth Gruner (1882-1939) was captivated by the subtle play of light across the valley. When he died at the age of 57, he left two unfinished paintings of the Michelago Valley which were donated to the National Art School in Sydney.

Stella Maria Miles Franklin was born in 1879 in the Monaro region. She was raised and educated on Brindabella Station, where her father was a wealthy cattle owner. One theme which ran through Franklin’s life was her love of the Australian mountain country. Her delightful autobiography Childhood at Brindabella tells the story of her first ten years spent partly at this station. Her first novel, written in 1901, My Brilliant Career, features a headstrong girl growing up in rural Australia in the 1890s.  Many scenes in the Gillian Armstrong-directed 1979 My Brilliant Career were filmed at the historic homestead of Micalago Station, which we visit. We’ll take a guided tour around the heritage-listed gardens and visit the site where George Lambert painted ‘The Squatter’s Daughter’. Lambert met Major General Sir Granville Ryrie in 1918, while serving as an official war artist in Palestine during WWI. After his return to Australia he visited the Ryrie property, Micalago, in 1923 and became a regular visitor over the following years. He described the Micalago landscape in a poem:

The sun is down and ‘Micalago’ is at rest
Like Chinese silk of faded gold, the grass and all the hills like breasts of turtle-doves …
my soul could find a home ‘midst blades of grass
And get its music from the whispering trees …
These pleasant little hills that lure us on
To ride and ride until we reach beyond.

David Campbell, whose home we visit tomorrow, also wrote a poem The Squatter’s Daughter about the funerals of Granville Ryrie  and his daughter at Michelago:

Veterans shed tears and limped the sweet-briar miles
Behind his guncarriage to Michelago
And now The Squatter’s Daughter follows him:
The grey lake blurs beneath
Governor’s Hill, her candid spirit mourned
By grandchildren with hair of daffodil.

Following our lunch and tour of the property we make our way back to Canberra. (Overnight Canberra) BL

Day 10: Thursday 31 March, Canberra – Palerang Homestead – Canberra
  • Manning Clark House, 11 Tasmania Circle, Forrest incl. talk by Sebastian Clark
  • Palerang Homestead: Lunch and tour

This morning we enjoy a private tour of the former residence of Manning Clark and his wife, Dymphna, which was designed by the architect and writer, Robin Boyd in 1952. It was here that the Clarks hosted luminaries such as Gough Whitlam and Patrick White, and remained friends with Boyd until his death in 1971. The living room includes the piano Manning Clark played on breaks from writing his six-volume History of Australia, artwork by John Perceval, and a portrait of Dymphna by Pamela Houstein. We also view the sitting room which features a print of a 1972 Arthur Boyd portrait of Manning Clark (the original is on loan to the National Portrait Gallery in Canberra), and the floor-to-ceiling library of books in Manning Clark’s study. Today the book collection exceeds 10,000 titles. There is also Dymphna’s typewriter which she used to work on the Aborigines Treaty Committee (at the invitation of Judith Wright), translating pioneering works on Aborigines by German anthropologists and editing the diaries of Baron von Hugel, an Austrian naturalist who visited Australia in the 1830s. During our visit we are delighted to confirm that Sebastian Clark has kindly agreed to meet with us and talk about his parents.

The poet David Campbell was a fishing companion of Manning Clark. Born in 1915 at Ellerslie station near Adelong, New South Wales, David Campbell is remembered as one of Australia’s finest lyric poets. He was a grazier in the Monaro for most of his life and a decorated airman during WWII. Over thirty years he published eleven books of poems and two of short stories, many of which appeared in The Bulletin. His poetry, which was inspired by his love of the land, had considerable influence on fellow writers.

We travel to Palerang Homestead, a former 1840s inn which lay on the coach road connecting the Monaro district to Goulburn and Sydney. David Campbell wrote much of his work when he and his family lived here through the mid 1960’s.

For now the sharp leaves
On the tree are still
And the great blond paddocks
Come down from the hill.

(Overnight Canberra) BL

Day 11: Friday 1 April, Canberra, Tour Ends
  • National Library of Australia (NLA): Behind-the-Scenes
  • Tuggeranong Homestead: Tour & Farewell Lunch
  • Author Chris Hammer: ‘The New Class of Australian Crime Writers’

By special appointment, we tour the National Library of Australia for a behind-the-scenes view of selected works. This copyright library is the largest reference library in the country containing an extensive collection of maps, rare books, photographs, oil paintings and manuscripts. Albert Einstein once commented: “The only thing you have to know, is the location of the library.” Well, in Canberra a wonderful library is not hard to find.

Our farewell lunch will be held at the heritage-listed and rural Tuggeranong Homestead. War historian Dr Charles Bean and his staff occupied the homestead from 1919 to 1925 and commenced the task of writing the Official History of Australia’s involvement in WWI.

We are delighted that acclaimed author, Chris Hammer, a leader in ‘Australian noir’, has kindly agreed to join us for our farewell lunch. For over 30 years Chris was a journalist covering Australian federal politics and international affairs. In Canberra, his roles included chief political correspondent for The Bulletin, current affairs correspondent for SBS’s Dateline, and senior political journalist for The Age. In 2018 he published his debut crime novel, Scrublands, which won the 2019 CWA Dagger New Blood Award for Best Crime Novel and became an instant best-seller. “Set in a fictional Riverina town at the height of a devastating drought, Scrublands is one of the most powerful, compelling and original crime novels to be written in Australia”, is what a critic had to say about it. Its sequels Silver (2019), and Trust (2020) move from ‘bush noir’ to ‘beach noir’ in atmospheric stories which capture the quintessentially Australian coastal lifestyle.

Sadly, all travels must come to an end. We head back to Canberra and its airport. Hopefully you will take with you an increased appreciation of the literary and artistic treasures of this country. BL

 An opal-hearted country,
A wilful, lavish land –
All you who have not loved her,
You will not understand –
Though earth holds many splendours,
Wherever I may die,
I know to what brown country
My homing thoughts will fly.

Dorothea Mackellar, My Country

Accommodation

Accommodation

All hotels and motels provide rooms with private facilities. A hotel list will be given to all participants prior to departure, in the meantime a summary is given below:

  • Canberra (2 nights): 4.5-star Avenue Hotel – a modern hotel located in the heart of Canberra’s CBD, adjacent to the Braddon dining and shopping precinct. www.avenuehotel.com.au
  • Millthorpe (2 nights): 4-star Millthorpe Boutique Motel –  a modern motel located in the heart of the historic village. www.millthorpemotel.com.au
  • Mudgee (2 nights): 4-star Winning Post Motor Inn – a modern motel with an outdoor swimming pool, restaurant and bar located, a 10-minute walk from the town centre. www.winningpostmotorinn.com.au
  • Young (1 night): 4-star Federation Motor Inn – a modern motel with an outdoor swimming pool, located 550m from the town centre. www.youngfederation.com.au
  • Tumut (1 night): 4-star Amaroo Motel – a modern AAA rated motel located in the town centre. www.amaroomotel.com or nearby NRMA rated 3-star Best Western Motel Farrington. www.motelfarrington.com.au
  • Canberra (2 nights): 4.5-star Avenue Hotel – a modern hotel located in the heart of Canberra’s CBD, adjacent to the Braddon dining and shopping precinct. www.avenuehotel.com.au

Note: Hotels are subject to change, in which case a hotel of similar standard will be provided.

Single Supplement

Payment of this supplement will ensure accommodation in a double/twin room for single occupancy throughout the tour. People wishing to take this supplement are therefore advised to book well in advance.

How to book

How to Book

Making a Tentative Reservation before the tour price has been published

ASA INTENTION TO TRAVEL APPLICATION FORM

Some ASA tours fill almost immediately. Don’t miss out! You can register your ‘Intention to Travel’ by completing this application and returning this to ASA with a AUD $100.00 per person deposit. Once the tour price has been published, the itinerary and ASA Reservation Application Form will be sent to you. From the time you receive the itinerary you will have two weeks to either:

  • Send us a completed ASA Reservation Application Form together with an additional deposit of AUD $400.00 per person. On receipt of this Reservation Application and deposit, ASA will process your booking and if approved, send you a tour confirmation. At this time your deposit of AUD $500.00 is subject to the tour’s Booking Conditions.

Or

  • CANCEL your Intention to Travel in writing. ASA will refund your AUD $100.00 per person deposit, less a $33.00 service fee (including GST).

Participation Criteria

To participate in an ASA tour, you must be reasonably fit, in good health and able to participate in all activities without assistance from Tour Leaders or other tour members. If you require assistance, a fit and able travel companion must undertake to accompany and assist you with all tasks for the duration of the whole tour. ASA’s ability to make reasonable adjustments to accommodate your specific needs, your health and safety and the health and safety of other tour members, is of paramount importance to us. For this reason the ASA Reservation Application includes a Medical Information section. As a general guideline, you must be able to accomplish each of these activities without assistance or support:

  • walk and stand unassisted for at least 2-3 hours a day in hot, humid conditions
  • walk confidently on and over uneven surfaces
  • climb at least 3 flights of stairs
  • embark and disembark from ferries, buses and trains
  • walk up and down steep slopes
  • walk at a steady pace and no less than 1km every 15-20 minutes
  • organise, manage and carry your own luggage
  • follow and remember tour instructions
  • meet punctually at designated times and places
  • administer your own medication
Practical Information

Practical Information

The number of flags is a guide to the degree of difficulty of ASA tours relative to each other (not to those of other tour companies). It is neither absolute nor literal. One flag is given to the least taxing tours, seven to the most. Flags are allocated, above all, according to the amount of walking and standing each tour involves. Nevertheless all ASA tours require that participants have a good degree of fitness enabling 2-3 hours walking or 1-1.5 hours standing still on any given site visit or excursion. Many sites are accessed by climbing slopes or steps and have uneven terrain.

This 11-day tour of Canberra and Central NSW involves:

  • A moderate amount of walking mainly during outdoor site visits, often up and down hills and/or flights of stairs and uneven terrain.
  • A moderate amount of coach travel, several on winding mountainous roads.
  • The daily schedule generally involves an early-morning departure (between 8.00-8.30am), concluding in the late afternoon (between 5.00-6.30pm).
  • 4-star hotels and motels with 5 accommodation changes.
  • You must be able to carry your own hand-luggage. Hotel porterage includes 1 piece of luggage per person, and is NOT available in some of the regional motels.

It is important to remember that ASA programs are group tours, and slow walkers affect everyone in the group. As the group must move at the speed of the slowest member, the amount of time spent at a site may be reduced if group members cannot maintain a moderate walking pace. ASA tours should not present any problem for active people who can manage day-to-day walking and stair-climbing. However, if you have any doubts about your ability to manage on a program, please ask your ASA travel consultant whether this is a suitable tour for you.

Please note: it is a condition of travel that all participants agree to accept ASA’s directions in relation to their suitability to participate in activities undertaken on the tour, and that ASA retains the sole discretion to direct a tour participant to refrain from a particular activity on part of the tour. For further information please refer to the ASA Reservation Application Form.

Practical Notes

Prior to departure, tour members will receive practical notes which include information on weather, clothing and what to pack.

Tour Price & Inclusions

Tour Price & Inclusions

AUD $TBA Land Content Only

AUD $TBA Single Supplement

Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:
  • Accommodation in twin-share rooms with private facilities in 4-star hotels and motels
  • Meals as indicated in the tour itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=dinner
  • Drinks at welcome and farewell meals. Other meals may not have drinks included.
  • Transportation by air-conditioned coach
  • Airport transfer on departure date if departing on the ‘ASA designated’ flight
  • Porterage of one piece of luggage per person at hotels; porterage is NOT available at some of the regional motels
  • Lecture and site-visit program
  • Entrance fees
  • Use of audio headsets for site excursions
  • Tips for the coach driver, local guides and restaurants for included meals
Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:
  • Airfare to Canberra
  • Personal spending money
  • Airport-hotel transfer on arrival date
  • Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs)
  • Travel insurance
Tour Map

Tour Map

Gallery
Terms & Conditions
Deposits

A deposit of $500.00 AUD per person is required to reserve a place on an ASA tour.

Cancellation Fees

If you decide to cancel your booking the following charges apply:

  • More than 75 days before departure: $500.00**
  • 75-46 days prior 25% of total amount due
  • 45-31 days prior 50% of total amount due
  • 30-15 days prior 75% of total amount due
  • 14-0 days prior 100% of total amount due

**This amount may be credited to another ASA tour departing within 12 months of the original tour you booked. We regret, in this case early-bird discounts will not apply.

We take the day on which you cancel as being that on which we receive written confirmation of cancellation.

Unused Portions of the Tour

We regret that refunds will not be given for any unused portions or services of the tour, such as meals, entry fees, accommodation, flights or transfers.

Will the Tour Price or Itinerary Change?

If the number of participants on a tour is significantly less than budgeted, or if there is a significant change in exchange rates ASA reserves the right to amend the advertised price. We shall, however, do all in our power to maintain the published price. Occasionally circumstances beyond the control of ASA make it necessary to change airline, hotel or to make amendments to itineraries. We will inform you of any changes in due course.

Travel Insurance

ASA requires all participants to obtain comprehensive travel insurance. A copy of your travel insurance certificate and the reverse charge emergency contact phone number must be received by ASA no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the tour.

Final Payment

The balance of the tour price will be due 75 days prior to the tour commencement date.

Limitation of Liability

ASA is not a carrier, event or tourist attraction host, accommodation or dining service provider. All bookings made and tickets or coupons issued by ASA for transport, event, accommodation, dining and the like are issued as an agent for various service providers and are subject to the terms and conditions and limitations of liability imposed by each service provider. ASA is not responsible for their products, services, terms and conditions. If a service provider cancels or does not deliver the product or service for which you have contracted, and does not give a refund, your remedy lies with the service provider, not ASA.

ASA will not be liable for any claim (e.g. sickness, injury, death, damage or loss) arising from any change, delay, detention, breakdown, border closures, cancellation, failure, accident, act, omission or negligence of any tour service provider or authority however caused (contingencies). You must take out such travel insurance as is available against such contingencies.

ASA’s liability in respect of any tour cancelled or changed will be limited to the partial refund of amounts you have paid, less an administration fee of $500 and other costs and charges of third party service providers. No compensation will be payable to you by ASA where ASA cancels or changes a tour, or any part of a tour.

ASA reserves the sole discretion to cancel any tour or to modify itineraries in any way it considers appropriate and in the best interests of health, safety and wellbeing of tour participants. Tour costs may be revised, subject to unexpected price increases or exchange rate fluctuations.

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