Southern Japan: Kyushu’s Ancient Forests, Mountain Shrines & the Spirit of the Samurai 2028

Day 1: Monday 10 April, Arrive Fukuoka

• Tour commences at the Hotel New Otani Hakata at 10.00am
• Tocho-ji Shrine
• Kushida Shrine
• Ohori Park – Japanese Garden
• Naka River Walk
• Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant

Meeting Point: The tour commences at 10.00am in the foyer of the Hotel New Otani Hakata.

After a brief introductory meeting we board our coach to visit two temples located nearby.

We first visit two small temple complexes nestled amongst the office and apartment buildings of central Hakata. Tocho-ji Shrine, distinguished by its colourful five-storey pagoda that soars above the site, was founded in 806 by Kobo-Daishi (also known as Kukai), the Buddhist monk, scholar, poet and calligrapher who is one of the most revered figures in Japan’s cultural and spiritual history. Nearby is the Shinto Kushida Shrine, the oldest in the Hakata and known as the guardian shrine of the city where worshippers come to pray to the enshrined god of longevity and business success.

We then travel by coach to Ohori Park, a large public space with a central lake that once served as part of the Fukuoka Castle’s moat. Within the park is the Japanese Garden, laid out in 1984 in a traditional manner with a pond, artificial hills, precisely positioned rocks and dense forests that cut-out the sounds of the modern city. There is a dry landscape garden, tea houses and a meandering watercourse.

Historically, Fukuoka and Hakata were two separate cities divided by the Naka River– Fukuoka was a castle town with samurai and Hakata was a merchant town. The cities merged in 1899 and Hakata became a principal ward of Fukuokoa city. We take an afternoon walk along the Naka Riverbank, a lively pedestrian zone that hosts the city’s famed yatai – the openair foodstalls that serve delicious, simple fare, each with its own specialities. You may wish to return to enjoy tis dining experience on a free evening in Fukuoka.

This evening we gather to enjoy a Welcome Dinner in a local restaurant. (Overnight Fukuoka) D

Day 2: Tuesday 11 April, Fukuoka – Dazaifu – Fukuoka

• Kyushu National Museum
• Dazaifu Tenmangu temple complex, including Tenkai Inari Shrine
• Komyozen-ji Garden

This morning we transfer to Dazaifu where we visit the excellent Kyushu National Museum that takes you on a journey through the art and history of Japan through the lens of its cultural interaction with other parts of Asia. In addition to displays of beautiful Japanese painting, metalwork and lacquer ware, there are textiles from Central Asia that travelled along the Silk Route, ceramics from Korea, and delicate calligraphy scrolls from China.

From the museum we walk down to Dazaifu Tenmangu, a Shinto temple complex dedicated to Heian era scholar Sugawara Michizane, and the complex is a popular place for students who come here to pray for success in their studies.  The shrine is approached through a series of torii gates and a large ceremonial gateway surrounded by traditional gardens. Part of the complex is the Tenkai Inari Shrine where a tunnel of vermillion torii gates lead visitors up to the main shrine.

Nearby is Komyozen-ji Temple, a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect and founded in the 12^th century. It has two very beautiful gardens. The front dry garden is formed with raked pebbles surrounding 15 rocks positioned to form the Japanese character for ‘light’. The rear moss garden is designed to be viewed form the temple’s main building. Here, in contrast to the verdant plants, stones and pebbles are used to create an abstract representation of water and land.

Before returning to Fukuoka there will be time to explore Tenjinsama-dori, a pedestrian street lined with shops and cafes. (Overnight Fukuoka) B

Day 3: Wednesday 12 April, Fukuoka – Hikosan – Yanagawa

• Slope car up Mt Hikosan
• Hikosan Jingu Hoheiden
• Walk down stone staircase to Kaneno Torii (410 steps, 800 meters)
• Akizuki Castle Town
• Tour of Ohana Ryokan Historical Buildings

This morning we depart Fukuoka and drive to Mt Hikosan, a sacred mountain with ancient shrines offering glorious views over the Yaba-Hita  Hikosan Quasi National Park. We take the slope car up to Hikosan Jingu Houheiden (the main shrine of the mountain), and then walk down the steps and paths to the Kaneno Torii, the copper gate built in 1637 that marks the entrance to the sanctuary.

We continue to Akizuki, a beautifully preserved 800-year-old castle town, the stronghold of the Akizuki and Kuroda clans. The town is dotted with the ruins of the castle and old samurai residences surrounded by clay moats and moss-covered stone walls. There will be time to explore this hidden gem, stroll along its cobbled streets and purchase your lunch at one of its traditional eateries.

In the afternoon we travel to Yamazawa where we will stay in the Ohana Ryokan, a traditional inn that maintains many historical features. The Ohana was once the residence of the Tachibana clan, a samurai family who were the overlords of the area and whose descendants still manage the ryokan. The oldest areas are now preserved as a museum with artefacts displaying the long history of the Tachibana clan and we will take a tour of the historical area before enjoying a traditional kaiseki dinner of many small, exquisite dishes that celebrate the cuisine and ingredients of Kyushu. (Overnight Yanagawa) BD

Day 4: Thursday 13 April, Yanagawa – Yoshinogari – Yanagawa

• Yoshinogari Historical Park
• Yanagawa Canal Cruise
• Afternoon at Leisure

This morning we visit the fascinating Yoshinogari Historical Park to encounter the Yayoi Period (300BC to 300AD). Here archaeologists uncovered a series of sprawling settlements, excavating pit dwellings, elevated storehouses, moats and tombs. Within the site are careful reconstructions of settlements and fortifications, along with displays of artifacts, allow visitors a glimpse into Ancient Japan.

On our return to Yanagawa we take a canal cruise in a traditional wooden punt, enjoying the town from its willow-lined waterways. The rest of the afternoon is at leisure to enjoy the facilities of the ryokan. You may wish to relax on the tatami mats in the magnificent hall that looks out to the traditional garden, enjoy a refreshment in the lounge, or explore the historic centre of Yanagawa on foot. (Overnight Yanagawa) BD

Day 5: Friday 14 April, Yanagawa – Okawachiyama – Nagasaki

• Okawachiyama Village
• Lunch at a local Restaurant
• Tozan Shrine
• Mihara Gardens

This morning we visit Okawachiyama, known as the Village of Secret Kilns. It was a porcelain production centre from the 17^th to 19^th centuries for the Imperial Course, Nabeshima shogunate and other nobles. In order to preserve the secret techniques of the potters, the village was tucked away in hilly terrain with a guard post at its entrance.

At the nearby Tozan Shrine, we will see beautiful examples of ceramics from this region as the porcelain has been incorporated into its structure replacing the traditional stone, including in the torii gates and guardian statues.

We then visit Mihara Garden designed by world-renown designer Kazuyuki Ishihama. On a hill overlooking the city, this is a sanctuary of calm and beauty. Paths lead past ponds and garden beds planted to provide interest throughout the year, whether it is the sculptural forms of bare winter trees, delicate spring blossoms, the vibrance of summer flowers, or magnificent autumn foliage. (Overnight Nagasaki) BL

Day 6: Saturday 15 April, Nagasaki

• Atomic Bomb Museum
• Hypocentre Park and Nagasaki Peace Park
• Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum
• Glover Garden
• Dejima (Dutch Island)

On 9 August 1945, three days after the first atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima, a B-29 bomber dropped a second bomb on Nagasaki. Cloud cover meant the pilots had limited visibility and the bomb exploded to the northwest of the city centre destroying 40 percent of the city and causing a catastrophic loss of civilian life.

The hypocentre of the explosion was transformed into a place of peace and beauty. The Atomic Bomb Museum tells the story of this dark day in Nagasaki’s history and its displays include many ordinary objects that were affected by the blast. Emerging from the museum, we walk through the Hypocentre Park and Nagasaki Peace Park, places of reflection that highlight the importance of peace and the resilience of the citizens.

We continue to the Nagasaki waterfront to visit the Prefectural Art Museum, designed by Kuma Kengo and opened in 2005. It houses a fascinating and unexpected collection of Spanish art, collected by Suma Yakichiro who was a special envoy to Spain during the Second World War.

This afternoon we explore the story of Europeans in Nagasaki. Portuguese merchants arrived in Japan in the 16^th century, bringing with them new technologies, Christianity and trade. The Portuguese were expelled in 1639 and were replaced by the Dutch, and Nagasaki became the only Japanese harbour that the foreign traders could use. This seclusion ended in the mid-19^th century, and more European traders established homes here. We visit the Glover Garden, an open-air museum that includes the Glover House that belonged to Scottish merchant Thomas Glover. We make our way down the hill to visit the fan-shaped artificial island of Dejima that was built in the 17^th century to house the Europeans and control the spread of their religion. (Overnight Nagasaki) B

Day 7: Sunday 16 April, Nagasaki – Kurokawa Onsen – Aso

• Ferry Across the Ariake Sea (Taira to Nagatsu)
• Kurokawa Onsen
• Kuju Flower Garden

Today we depart Nagasaki and travel to the beautiful Mount Aso National Park. We first transfer to the heart of Kyushu to the mountain village Kurokawa Onsen. This is one of Japan’s most attractive hot spring towns, where the traditional guesthouses and atmosphere of a mountain retreat have been preserved. There will be some time to stroll the cobbled laneways that meander through the village, lined with public onsen (hot spring bath houses), shops, café and shrines, before we drive to Mount Aso. On the way we will visit the Kuju Flower Garden, a spacious park with over 500 different varieties of plant. Wide paths lead us through flower fields, and the plantings were planned so that flowers can be enjoyed throughout the year. This evening we dine together at the hotel. (Overnight Aso) BLD

Day 8: Monday 17 April, Aso – Kitsuki – Usuki – Kurokawa Onsen

• Kitsuki historic village, including Kitsuki Castle and Samurai Houses
• Usuki historic village, including Samurai Houses
• Stone Buddhas, Usuki

On the east coast of Kyushu we find two fascinating villages steeped in history with well-preserved samurai districts. At Kitsuki we find a rare example of two samurai districts to the north and south, with a narrow commercial district between and the castle at the eastern end. The town’s historic character is preserved by ensuring modern ‘distractions’ such as powerlines do not impinge on the vista. Several of the Samurai Residences have been restored and now serve as museums.

Stone alleyways also lead through Usuki, principally the Nioza Historical Road, lined with temples, houses and little shops. The main place of interest is a little out of town – the Usuki Stone Buddhas. Designated as National Treasures in a country where Buddha statues are more commonly made of wood or metal, these statue date to the late Heian Period (794-1185). The 61 statues, some retaining their painted decoration, are carved into a cliff-face and set in four clusters linked by a path. (Overnight Aso) BD

Day 9: Tuesday 18 April, Aso – Kumamoto – Kagoshima

• Scenic Drive through Mount Aso National Park
• Suizenji Jojuen, Kumamoto
• Shinkansen Kumamoto to Kagoshima
• Chiran Peace Museum

This morning we then take a scenic drive through the Mount Aso National Park to Kumamoto. On the eastern side of the city is Suizenji Jojuen, a charming Edo period stroll garden built around a pond. A striking feature of the garden is the conical artificial mountain that evokes Mount Fuji.

We then travel to the very southern end of Kyushu. Before we embark on the last stage of our journey south we will visit the beautifully presented and poignant Chiran Peace Museum. Located on the Satsuma Peninsula, this was once the Chiran airbase which served as the departure point for kamikaze sorties in the final months of World War Two. The kamikaze are one of the most potent symbols of the war in Japan – young men with patriotic valour who were asked to sacrifice their lives to destroy the enemy. They were celebrated as cherry blossoms – a brief, fleeting existence marked by exquisite beauty. The buttons on the kamikaze uniforms were embossed with a blossom. (Overnight Kagoshima) B

Day 10: Wednesday 19 April, Kagoshima – Yakushima

• Early morning ferry Kagoshima to Yakushima Island
• Coach tour around Yakushima Island, visiting waterfalls, beaches, villages and shrines

This morning we travel by ferry to Yakushima, an island famed for its towering mountains, lush vegetation and ancient forests of Japanese cedar. The island is home to hundreds of endemic flowers, shrubs and trees, and is a spawning ground for loggerhead turtles. In 1993 it was declared a World Heritage Site of Natural Beauty.

Archaeologists have found traces of human habitation of the island that can be traced back 6000 years, and the island is mentioned in records from the 8^th century. Yakushima was heavily logged during the Edo period, a time when a great number of castles, temples and monuments were built throughout the country, and the valuable lumber industry was established under the control of the powerful Shimazu clan. Fishing and agriculture were other important industries for the islanders.

We will follow the 100km long coastal road around the island. We visit waterfalls, beaches, villages and shrines, such as the Yahazudake Shrine on Cape Yahazu, with a red torii gate marking the entrance to a vast cave, believed to be the home of the gods of fishing and marriage. (Overnight Yakushima) BLD

Day 11: Thursday 20 April, Yakushima

• Morning program of walking the island trails to explore the ancient cedar forests
• Afternoon at leisure on Yakushima Island

This morning we take a guided walk into the forest to encounter the ancient Yakusugi (Japanese cedar) trees. The most accessible place to visit these moss-covered giants is along the boardwwalks and walking trails of a nature park called Yakusugi Land. In addition to the spectacular plant life, the forests are also home to Japanese macaques, Sika deer, Tanuki (Japanese raccoons) and Japanese weasels.

The afternoon is at leisure to relax after the morning walk. (Overnight Yakushima) BLD

Day 12: Friday 21 April, Yakushima – Fukuoka

• Morning flight Yakushima to Fukuoka
• Yusentei Park

We return to Kyushu on a midday flight and transfer to Yusentei Park, a large historical garden loved by the local people of Fukuoka. It dates to the mid-Edo period when it formed part of the home of the Kuroda family. This is a contemplative garden, with tea houses, a lake filled with carp, moss-covered stone lanterns and ancient trees.

We then transfer to our hotel and the evening is at leisure. If the weather is fine, you may wish to return to the Naka River and experience the city’s street food at the waterside yatai. (Overnight Fukuoka) B

Day 13: Saturday 22 April, Fukuoka – Izuka – Kawachi – Fukuoka

• Former Den-emon Ito Residence, Izuka
• Kawachi Wisteria Garden
• Farewell Dinner at a Local Restaurant

This morning we travel to Izuka to the grand Former Den-emon Ito Residence. Originally a more modest traditional dwelling, the house was renovated in 1911 when the very wealthy 50 year-old industrialist Ito Den-emon, married a young and beautiful poetess named Yanagihara Byakuren. The original house was incorporated into a 25 room mansion and surrounded by a beautiful garden that blends Japanese and Western gardening traditions, with large expanses of lawn leading to a charming lake, lantern flanked paths and a tranquil summer house.

We continue to Kawachi Wisteria Garden, one of the most beautiful places on Kyushu. This private garden is only opened for a few weeks twice a year – once when the wisteria are in bloom and again when the autumn leaves are at their most colourful. The garden is filled with exquisite displays of  wisteria, ranging in colour from deep purples to vivid white, particularly its two 100-meter-long tunnels.

We return to Fukuoka where we gather for a farewell dinner at a local restaurant. (Overnight Fukuoka) BLD

Day 14: Sunday 23 April, Depart Fukuoka

• The tour ends at the hotel after breakfast B

Our tour ends in Fukuoka after breakfast. You may wish to extend your stay in Japan or return home. You should find your own way to the airport or consult ASA for transfer assistance. B