Islands of the Aegean: stories of the Eastern Mediterranean
Few places on earth gather such an abundant mix of mythology, archaeology, and history as the islands of the Aegean. Birthplace of the Gods and the Wonders of the World, they also bear the mark of an intense medieval history, when the crusaders were flocking to the East to make a name for themselves and reclaim the Holy Land. All these histories left behind a huge legacy, from a plethora of archaeological sites to still-standing medieval structures, not even mentioning the beauty of the natural environment and the vivacity of its modern-day culture.
Crete, cradle of the Minoans
The Minoan civilisation developed steadily throughout the 3rd millenieum but about 2000 BCE underwent a spectacular development with the building of the first palaces, and the appearance of a system of writing (known to archaeologists as Linear A, and still undeciphered). At the same time a fine new pottery known as Kamares ware was produced. Archaeological discoveries have linked this phase of Cretan history to the Egyptian Middle Kingdom – it is termed Middle Minoan (2000-1600 BCE). About 1700 BCE these first palaces were sacked and destroyed, possibly after earthquake damage. It is not clear who the invaders were, but one theory points to the Mycenaeans. Crete recovered and the palaces were rebuilt on more splendid lines in the period known as Late Minoan (1600-1200 BCE). At the time of the second palaces, about 1550-1500 BCE, new styles appeared, the Pattern style, with rows of spirals, the Floral style with flowers and reeds and the Marine style with octopuses, fish, corals and seaweed.
About 1500 BCE the volcanic island of Thera erupted, and the eruption and the accompanying tidal wave severely damaged the Cretan palaces, although it did not destroy the civilisation itself, which survived another generation or so until the island was invaded, probably by the Mycenaeans. One by one the cities were destroyed, first Phaistos and then Mallia. Knossos was damaged about 1400 BCE but was not completely destroyed. The Mycenaeans probably established themselves at Knossos and rebuilt parts of the palace in the 14th or even 13th century BCE and ruled Crete until the Trojan war (about 1200 BCE) as the ‘Cretan Idomeneus’ is mentioned by Homer.
Kos, home of Hippocrates
The Dodecanese Island of Kos is the home of famous ancient Greek physician Hippocrates. There are no recorded dates about his existence, but historians place his birth at around 460 BC, based on Aristotle and Plato’s references. While considered the ‘father of medicine’, the reality is that the Oath, and the 60 or so other ancient Greek treatises on medicine that we call “the Hippocratic corpus”, are all anonymous and were written over many centuries in different Greek dialects.
The Plane Tree of Hippocrates, under which legend says he taught medicine to his students, stands today near Kos’ harbour. It is an impressive tree which might be the largest Plane tree in Europe. A few kilometres out of the city of Kos is the Asklepieion, a sanctuary dedicated to Asklepios, demigod and son of Apollo, and considered the God of Medicine. Built in the first half of the 4th century BCE, it was a place of worship as well as a place of healing and teaching. Here, Hippocrates was trained and started teaching becoming an Asklepiad, a title borne by ancient Greek doctors. The site is laid out in three terraces connected by an imposing staircase. The second level houses a large altar (the earliest structure in the Asklepieion – mid 4th century BCE), and the remains of the large and splendid Doric Temple of Asklepios from the 2nd century BCE lie on the third and final terrace.
Delos, birthplace of Apollo and Artemis
The island of Delos is small but one of the most storied in all Greek history. It is one of the most important mythological, historical, and archaeological sites in Greece and was considered sacred. Investigation of ancient stone huts found on the island indicate that it has been inhabited since the 3rd millennium BCE. Before the rise of the Olympian gods, Delos was a major religious centre which eventually became subsumed into the Olympian cosmology as the birthplace of Apollo, the only god in the classical pantheon to share the same name in both Greek and Roman traditions, and his sister Artemis. Its importance in Aegean history is astounding considering the size of the island and its lack of natural resources. Its most notable features include the Sacred Lake, the Temple of the Delians, Terrace of the Lions, the Oikos of the Naxians, the Doric-style Temple of Isis, Temple of Hera and House of Dionysos with its famous mosaic of the god riding on a panther.
Bodrum, The Land of the Eternal Blue
Dominating Bodrum’s harbour is the Castle of Saint Peter, begun in 1402 by the Knights Hospitaller as a hospital for pilgrims to Jerusalem, which today houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology. Bodrum is the centre of Turkish marine archaeology and the Museum has a wide range of fascinating underwater finds displayed throughout the Castle. They include finds from a wreck dating from 1350 BCE that was carrying copper and tin ingots, amphorae packed with terebinth resin used in making perfume, as well as fragments of scrap gold and silver jewellery that were intended for reuse. From another wreck, an early medieval merchant ship discovered in the 1970s and known as the ‘Glass Wreck’, comes a display of intact glass cups and bottles. The greater part of this vessel’s cargo appears, however, to have been over a million shards of broken glass, which were also being transported for recycling.
Across the harbour is the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Once this edifice stood over 50 metres high, but today only the foundations remain. The Knights Hospitaller used the Mausoleum as a quarry to build their castle. When the site was excavated in the middle of the 19th century, the surviving frescos and statuary were sent to the British Museum. The story goes that Turkish writer Cevat Sakir Kabaagaçlı – known as ‘The Fisherman of Halicarnassus’ wrote to Queen Elizabeth requesting that the Mausoleum’s artifacts be returned to Bodrum. He argued that such exquisite works of art were not given their true place under the foggy, grey sky of London. The response he allegedly received stated: ‘Thank you for reminding us of the matter, we have painted the ceiling where the Mausoleum is located in blue’.
Rhodes, the Island of the Knights
The third largest of the Greek islands, Rhodes’ history is linked to the Knights of Saint John, also known as the Hospitallers. It is graced with two concentrations of monuments: the city of Rhodes and the citadel of Lindos. In the early Iron Age, the island was divided into three states. In 408 BCE, these cities united with the port-city and harbour of Rhodes as the capital. Rhodes was later famous for the colossus that supposedly straddled its entrance. Facing Alexander the Great, Rhodes retained its independent status and grew rich as a major maritime trade hub but its importance decreased in the 1st century BCE, once under the protection of Rome. By the time St. Paul visited the island it had become somewhat of a backwater.
The medieval village of Lindos and the ancient acropolis above it, accessed via the monumental staircase and propylaea (entrance building) date from the Hellenistic period. Within the acropolis, which was fortified during the Middle Ages with impressive walls, is the fine Doric temple to Athena, where the offerings table and base of the cult statue can still be seen. The temple also affords stunning panoramas of the island, including a view of Agios Pavlos, the place where St Paul is said to have landed.
Rhodes remained outside the main currents of Mediterranean life until the Crusades, when it became one link in a chain of fortresses and ports that connected the Crusader kingdoms of the Levant with the western Mediterranean. After the Knights Hospitaller were expelled from the Holy Land, they conquered the island from the Byzantines, and Rhodes became the Order’s stronghold during the 14th century. The Knights built several beautiful palaces including the Palace of the Grand Master, one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in Greece. They were ousted by Ottoman sultan Suleyman the Magnificent in 1522, and eventually settled in Malta (then captured by Napoleon in 1798).
The Crusaders stayed in the region for over 400 years and left an important mark in the history and architecture of the Eastern Mediterranean. Many of these structures were destroyed by the Islamic rulers who took over, but they also kept a lot of them intact to use, proof of the abilities of their original builders.
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Article images
Acropolis of Lindos, Rhodes, Greece. Doric columns of the ancient Temple of Athena Lindia the IV century BC and the bay of St. Paul. ID 87724645 © Vladimir Timofeev | Dreamstime.com, https://www.dreamstime.com/vladimircaribb_info
The Palace of Knossos, Crete. Photo by Kristen Hellstrom
Ancient ruins in the island of Delos in Cyclades, one of the most important mythological, historical and archaeological sites in Greece. Image ID: 121077444 Copyright Georgios Tsichlis | Dreamstime.com https://www.dreamstime.com/gtsichlis_info
Bodrum Castle, Türkiye. Photo by Kristen Hellstrom
Staircase of the Propylaea and Church of St. John on the Acropolis of Lindos Rhodes, Greece. Image ID: 106815804 Copyright Lubos K | Dreamstime.com https://www.dreamstime.com/luboskova_info
The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. Photo by Kristen Hellstrom.
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